Overview

Main Plan

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Bouldering Training Plan
3-Day Split · V4/V5 → V6/V7

Bouldering
Training Plan

Built around your strengths — balance and dynamic movement — and closing the gaps in body tension and power.

Goal: Reach V6/V7
Goal: Improve overhang climbing
Goal: Build body tension
Goal: Increase power

Log Day

Pick a day and tick off what you completed

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Follow Along

Step through today's session with built-in timers

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Warm-Up Routine

10–15 minutes, off the wall — do this before any climbing day

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Mon
Climbing
Tue
Home
Wed
Rest
Thu
Climbing
Fri
Home
Sat
Climbing
Sun
Rest

Weekly Structure

Tap any day above to open its full session. Here's the split at a glance.
Climbing Days
3 / week
Home Workouts
2 / week
Full Rest
2 / week
Climbing day Home workout Rest day

6-Week Progression

Intensity builds across the block, then deloads before you start again.
DayWk 1Wk 2Wk 3Wk 4Wk 5Wk 6
Mon ModMod HardHard PeakPeak
Tue LightLight LightLight LightLight
Wed RestRest RestRest RestRest
Thu ModMod HardHard PeakPeak
Fri LightLight LightLight LightLight
Sat ModMod HardHard PeakDeload
Sun RestRest RestRest RestRest
Rest Light Moderate Hard Peak
Weeks 1–2Build the habit, moderate intensity, clean form on weighted pulls and no-feet bouldering.
Weeks 3–4Raise limit-bouldering intensity, add weight/harder edges on hangboard and pull-ups.
Weeks 5–6Peak — hardest projecting and heaviest pulling load, then deload the last few days.
After Week 6Take a full deload week (light volume only) before starting the next block.

Injury Prevention

CautionWarm up fingers fully before Day 1 and Day 2 — 10+ minutes including easy hangs.
CautionAny pulley or elbow tenderness means skip hangboarding or weighted pulling that session.
NoteFingers take real load on Day 1 and shoulders/elbows on Day 2 — that's enough. Don't add a third dedicated finger session.
NoteIf antagonist or flexibility days leave you sore, ease off volume — they support the climbing days, not compete with them.
Looking aheadOnce you're consistently sending V6/V7, it's worth revisiting actual campus board training on top of this base.
Tap the menu icon to jump straight to any session or exercise category.
Off the Wall
Warm-Up Routine
10–15 minutes — do this before any climbing day, before you touch a hold.
  • Cardio2–3 min light cardio (jogging on the spot, jumping jacks) to raise general body temperature.
  • ShouldersArm circles forward and backward, 10 each direction. Shoulder rolls, 10 reps.
  • WristsWrist circles, 10 each direction. Wrist flexor/extensor stretch, 20s each.
  • HipsLeg swings (front-back, side-side), 10 each leg. Hip circles, 10 each direction.
  • SpineCat-cow, 8 reps. Standing side bends, 8 each side.
  • FingersFinger spreads and gentle extensions, 10 reps. Easy dead hangs on a jug, 10–15s × 2–3, very light effort.
  • Activation5–10 min easy climbing on big holds, progressively increasing difficulty toward your working grade.
TipCold hands or cold weather? Extend this to 15–20 minutes before touching anything finger-intensive.
CautionIf any finger feels off during warm-up, back off that finger or hold type for the session rather than pushing through.
Monday · Day 1
Power / Limit Bouldering
Build the habit of pulling with straight-arm tension instead of momentum.
  • Warm-up15 min easy climbing + mobility, then progressively harder holds.
  • Main SetLimit bouldering: 45 min on steep terrain (20–40° overhang) at your limit. 3–5 attempts per problem, 2–3 min rest.
  • Drill"Quiet feet, locked core": 3 overhung problems, 2 grades below max, zero foot slips, no swinging hips.
  • StrengthHangboard (10–15 min, fingers already warm): max hangs on a hard 20mm edge, 5–6s hang, 5–6 sets, 3 min rest. Alternate half-crimp and open-hand week to week.
  • FinisherCore: front lever progression 4×10–15s, hollow body 4×30–45s, hanging leg raises 3×8–10.
CautionIf forearms are pumped going into the hangboard block, skip it. Max-force training on fatigued tendons is a real injury risk.
NoteIf you're pumped this often, check rest periods (should be 2–3 min) and trim limit-bouldering volume before the hangboard slot.
Tuesday · Home
Antagonist Muscle Workout
~30 minutes, floor only — counters climbing's pulling-dominant load.
  • PushPush-ups 3×12–15. Pike push-ups 3×8–10. Diamond push-ups 2×10.
  • ShouldersProne Y-T-W raises 3×10 each position. Scapular push-ups 2×12.
  • Posterior ChainSupermans 3×12. Bird dogs 3×10/side. Glute bridges 3×15.
  • ForearmsReverse wrist curls 3×15. Finger extension against light resistance 3×15.
Wednesday · Rest
Full Rest
Recovery day — no structured training.
  • RecoveryPrioritise sleep and food today — this is where the adaptation from Day 1 and the antagonist session actually happens.
  • OptionalLight walking or easy mobility is fine if you want to move, but keep effort low.
Thursday · Day 2
Pulling Strength + No-Feet Power
Same catching-under-tension strength campus board would build, at lower injury risk for your level.
  • Warm-up15 min easy climbing + mobility.
  • StrengthWeighted pull-ups (or weighted dead hangs): 4–5 sets × 3–5 reps, full rest. Add weight only when form stays clean.
  • Main SetNo-feet bouldering: 3–4 steep problems, 2–3 grades below max, hands only, controlled — 3–4 attempts each.
  • PowerPlyometric jug-to-jug: both hands together, explosive but controlled — 4–5 reps × 3 sets.
  • FinisherCore: plank shoulder taps 3×20, Copenhagen plank 3×20–30s/side, active-shoulder dead hangs 3×20–30s.
Friday · Home
Flexibility Workout
~25–30 minutes, floor only — biased toward hips, the bigger limiter for slab and high-steps.
  • HipsDeep squat hold 2–3 min total. 90/90 hip stretch 60–90s/side.
  • HipsPigeon pose 60–90s/side. Frog stretch 60–90s.
  • ShouldersSleeper stretch 30–45s/side. Cross-body shoulder stretch 30s/side. Doorway pec stretch 30–45s/side.
  • GeneralCat-cow 10 reps. Downward dog to cobra flow 8–10 reps. Hamstring stretch 60s.
Saturday · Day 3
Technique / Projecting
Keep your natural strengths sharp while continuing to reinforce tension.
  • Warm-up20 min, varied terrain.
  • Main SetProject 2–3 problems at your limit — mix in at least one steep/tension problem alongside slab/dyno picks.
  • DrillSlab footwork: do it after you're already pumped, not fresh — tests real control.
  • DrillDyno "stick and hold": after every dynamic move, hold the landing static for 3 seconds.
  • Volume8–10 easy problems (2–3 grades below max) for efficiency, minimum wasted movement.
Sunday · Rest
Full Rest
Recovery day — no structured training.
  • RecoveryLet the week's hardest sessions fully absorb before the next block ramps up.
  • OptionalLight walking or easy mobility only.
Track Progress
Log a Day
Pick a date, choose the session you did, and tick off what you completed.
Date
Session
Track Progress
Session History
Days you've logged, colour-coded by session type.
Climbing day logged Home workout logged Rest day logged Missed

Your Data

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Track Progress
Stats
How often you complete each exercise on the days you've logged it.
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