3-Day Split · V4/V5 → V6/V7

Bouldering
Training Plan

Built around your strengths — balance and dynamic movement — and closing the gaps in body tension and power.

Goal: Reach V6/V7

Goal: Improve overhang climbing

Goal: Build body tension

Goal: Increase power

Log Day

Pick a day and tick off what you completed

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Follow Along

Step through today's session with built-in timers

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Warm-Up Routine

10–15 minutes, off the wall — do this before any climbing day

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Mon

Climbing

Tue

Home

Wed

Rest

Thu

Climbing

Fri

Home

Sat

Climbing

Sun

Rest

6-Week Progression

Intensity builds across the block, then deloads before you start again.

Day	Wk 1	Wk 2	Wk 3	Wk 4	Wk 5	Wk 6
Mon	Mod	Mod	Hard	Hard	Peak	Peak
Tue	Light	Light	Light	Light	Light	Light
Wed	Rest	Rest	Rest	Rest	Rest	Rest
Thu	Mod	Mod	Hard	Hard	Peak	Peak
Fri	Light	Light	Light	Light	Light	Light
Sat	Mod	Mod	Hard	Hard	Peak	Deload
Sun	Rest	Rest	Rest	Rest	Rest	Rest

Rest Light Moderate Hard Peak

Weeks 1–2Build the habit, moderate intensity, clean form on weighted pulls and no-feet bouldering.

Weeks 3–4Raise limit-bouldering intensity, add weight/harder edges on hangboard and pull-ups.

Weeks 5–6Peak — hardest projecting and heaviest pulling load, then deload the last few days.

After Week 6Take a full deload week (light volume only) before starting the next block.

Injury Prevention

CautionWarm up fingers fully before Day 1 and Day 2 — 10+ minutes including easy hangs.

CautionAny pulley or elbow tenderness means skip hangboarding or weighted pulling that session.

NoteFingers take real load on Day 1 and shoulders/elbows on Day 2 — that's enough. Don't add a third dedicated finger session.

NoteIf antagonist or flexibility days leave you sore, ease off volume — they support the climbing days, not compete with them.

Looking aheadOnce you're consistently sending V6/V7, it's worth revisiting actual campus board training on top of this base.

Off the Wall

Warm-Up Routine

10–15 minutes — do this before any climbing day, before you touch a hold.

Cardio2–3 min light cardio (jogging on the spot, jumping jacks) to raise general body temperature.
ShouldersArm circles forward and backward, 10 each direction. Shoulder rolls, 10 reps.
WristsWrist circles, 10 each direction. Wrist flexor/extensor stretch, 20s each.
HipsLeg swings (front-back, side-side), 10 each leg. Hip circles, 10 each direction.
SpineCat-cow, 8 reps. Standing side bends, 8 each side.
FingersFinger spreads and gentle extensions, 10 reps. Easy dead hangs on a jug, 10–15s × 2–3, very light effort.
Activation5–10 min easy climbing on big holds, progressively increasing difficulty toward your working grade.

TipCold hands or cold weather? Extend this to 15–20 minutes before touching anything finger-intensive.

CautionIf any finger feels off during warm-up, back off that finger or hold type for the session rather than pushing through.

Reference

Exercises

Every exercise in your plan — how it's done, and what it looks like.

Core & Finisher

Front Lever Progression

Hang from a bar with straight arms, then lever your body up toward horizontal, keeping hips and shoulders in a straight line. Hold at whatever angle keeps good form — tucked, single-leg, or full extension.

Hollow Body Hold

Lie on your back, press your lower back into the floor, and lift shoulders and legs slightly off the ground. Arms extended overhead, body in a gentle banana curve — brace hard, don't let the lower back arch.

Hanging Leg Raises

Hang from a bar with straight arms. Keeping legs straight (or knees bent if needed), raise them to at least hip height without swinging. Lower under control.

Plank Shoulder Taps

Hold a high plank on your hands. Without letting your hips rotate or sag, lift one hand and tap the opposite shoulder, then replace it. Alternate sides, keeping the plank rock steady throughout.

Copenhagen Plank

Side plank with your top leg resting on a bench or box, bottom leg lifted to meet it. Supports through the top inner thigh and bottom arm — a strong hip and adductor challenge.

Active-Shoulder Dead Hangs

Hang from a bar with straight arms, but actively engage your shoulders (pull shoulder blades down slightly) rather than hanging completely passive. Builds shoulder health and grip endurance together.

Strength & Power

Hangboard Max Hangs

Hang from a hangboard edge with straight arms for a short, hard effort (5-6 seconds), then rest fully before the next set. Keep shoulders engaged, not passive — this is about maximum finger tension, not endurance.

Weighted Pull-Ups

Add weight via a belt or vest, then perform full-range pull-ups, chin clearing the bar each rep. Substitute weighted dead hangs if pull-ups aren't yet accessible.

Plyometric Jug-to-Jug

On a steep wall, explosively move both hands together from one jug to another, catching with control rather than slapping. Focus on a quiet, controlled landing, not just raw power.

Push

Push-Ups

Hands under shoulders, body in a straight line from head to heels. Lower chest to just above the floor, then press back up without letting hips sag or pike.

Pike Push-Ups

Start in a downward-dog-like position, hips high, hands and feet on the floor. Bend the elbows to lower your head toward the ground, then press back up — this loads the shoulders more like an overhead press.

Diamond Push-Ups

Same as a push-up, but hands are close together under your chest, forming a diamond shape with your fingers. Puts more emphasis on the triceps — expect it to be noticeably harder than a standard push-up.

Shoulders

Prone Y-T-W Raises

Lying face down, raise your arms into a Y shape (thumbs up, arms angled overhead), then repeat in a T shape (arms straight out to the sides) and a W shape (elbows bent, squeezing shoulder blades). No weight needed.

Scapular Push-Ups

Hold a plank position with straight arms. Without bending the elbows, let your shoulder blades pinch together (chest dips slightly), then push the floor away, spreading the shoulder blades apart. Small range, big shoulder-health payoff.

Posterior Chain

Supermans

Lying face down, simultaneously lift your arms, chest, and legs off the floor, holding briefly at the top. Squeeze the glutes and lower back — a simple, effective posterior chain activator.

Bird Dogs

On hands and knees, extend one arm forward and the opposite leg straight back simultaneously, keeping your back flat and hips square. Hold briefly, then switch sides.

Glute Bridges

Lying on your back, knees bent and feet flat on the floor, drive through your heels to lift your hips until your body forms a straight line from shoulders to knees. Squeeze at the top, lower under control.

Forearms

Reverse Wrist Curls

Rest your forearm on a bench or your knee, palm facing down, holding a light weight. Extend the wrist upward against the resistance, then lower with control. Targets the often-neglected wrist extensors.

Finger Extensions

With a light rubber band around your fingers and thumb (or just against your other hand's resistance), spread your fingers open against the resistance, then relax. Balances out all the finger-flexion climbing demands.

Flexibility

Deep Squat Hold

Drop into the deepest comfortable squat, feet flat on the floor, chest tall. Use your elbows to gently press your knees outward if needed. Just breathe and relax into the position.

90/90 Hip Stretch

Sit with your front leg bent 90° in front of you and your back leg bent 90° out to the side behind you. Lean gently forward over the front shin, then switch sides.

Pigeon Pose

From all fours, bring one knee forward and angle the shin across your body, extending the other leg straight back. Square your hips and fold forward over the front leg for a deeper hip-opener.

Frog Stretch

On hands and knees, widen your knees out to each side as far as comfortable, keeping ankles in line with knees. Rock hips gently back to deepen the inner-thigh stretch.

Sleeper Stretch

Lie on your side, bottom arm bent 90° in front of you. Use your other hand to gently press the forearm down toward the floor, stretching the back of the shoulder (internal rotation).

Cross-Body Shoulder Stretch

Bring one arm straight across your chest, using the other arm to gently pull it closer. Keep the shoulder relaxed down, away from your ear.

Doorway Pec Stretch

Place your forearm against a doorframe with your elbow at shoulder height, then step through the doorway until you feel a stretch across the chest. Keep your torso upright rather than twisting.

Cat-Cow

On hands and knees, alternate between arching your spine up toward the ceiling (cat) and dropping your belly while lifting your chest and tailbone (cow). Slow, continuous movement synced with your breath.

Downward Dog to Cobra Flow

Flow between downward dog (hips high, straight-ish legs, inverted V) and cobra (lying prone, pressing the chest up with straight-ish arms). Moves the spine through extension and flexion together.

Hamstring Stretch

Sitting with one leg extended straight in front of you, hinge forward from the hips (not the lower back) reaching toward your foot. Keep the extended knee soft, not locked.

Climbing Technique

Quiet Feet, Locked Core

On steep terrain, climb without letting your feet slip or your hips swing — every foot placement should land silently and stay put. Forces you to control momentum with your core instead of muscling through with your arms.

Slab Footwork Drill

Deliberately climb slab or vertical problems focusing purely on foot precision — weight over the foot, no jamming or scumming. Doing this once you're already pumped tests whether your footwork holds up under fatigue, which is when it usually falls apart.

Dyno "Stick and Hold"

After every dynamic move, freeze and hold the landing position completely static for a few seconds before continuing. Pairs your dynamic strength with the tension control needed to actually stick the move on a real problem, not just reach it.

Monday · Day 1

Power / Limit Bouldering

Build the habit of pulling with straight-arm tension instead of momentum.

Warm-up15 min easy climbing + mobility, then progressively harder holds.
Main SetLimit bouldering: 45 min on steep terrain (20–40° overhang) at your limit. 3–5 attempts per problem, 2–3 min rest.
Drill"Quiet feet, locked core": 3 overhung problems, 2 grades below max, zero foot slips, no swinging hips.
StrengthHangboard (10–15 min, fingers already warm): max hangs on a hard 20mm edge, 5–6s hang. 6 sets, 3 min rest. Alternate half-crimp and open-hand week to week.
FinisherFront lever progression: 4 sets, 10–15s hold.
FinisherHollow body hold: 4 sets, 30–45s.
FinisherHanging leg raises: 3 sets of 8–10 reps.

CautionIf forearms are pumped going into the hangboard block, skip it. Max-force training on fatigued tendons is a real injury risk.

NoteIf you're pumped this often, check rest periods (should be 2–3 min) and trim limit-bouldering volume before the hangboard slot.

Tuesday · Home

Antagonist Muscle Workout

~30 minutes, floor only — counters climbing's pulling-dominant load.

PushPush-ups: 3 sets of 12–15 reps.
PushPike push-ups: 3 sets of 8–10 reps.
PushDiamond push-ups: 2 sets of 10 reps.
ShouldersProne Y-T-W raises: 3 sets of 10 reps each position.
ShouldersScapular push-ups: 2 sets of 12 reps.
Posterior ChainSupermans: 3 sets of 12 reps.
Posterior ChainBird dogs: 3 sets of 10 reps per side.
Posterior ChainGlute bridges: 3 sets of 15 reps.
ForearmsReverse wrist curls: 3 sets of 15 reps.
ForearmsFinger extensions against light resistance: 3 sets of 15 reps.

Wednesday · Rest

Full Rest

Recovery day — no structured training.

RecoveryPrioritise sleep and food today — this is where the adaptation from Day 1 and the antagonist session actually happens.
OptionalLight walking or easy mobility is fine if you want to move, but keep effort low.

Thursday · Day 2

Pulling Strength + No-Feet Power

Same catching-under-tension strength campus board would build, at lower injury risk for your level.

Warm-up15 min easy climbing + mobility.
StrengthWeighted pull-ups (or weighted dead hangs): 5 sets of 3–5 reps, full rest between sets. Add weight only when form stays clean.
Main SetNo-feet bouldering: 4 steep problems, 2–3 grades below max, hands only, controlled — 3–4 attempts each.
PowerPlyometric jug-to-jug: 3 sets of 4–5 reps, explosive but controlled.
FinisherPlank shoulder taps: 3 sets of 20 reps.
FinisherCopenhagen plank: 3 sets, 20–30s per side.
FinisherActive-shoulder dead hangs: 3 sets, 20–30s.

Friday · Home

Flexibility Workout

~25–30 minutes, floor only — biased toward hips, the bigger limiter for slab and high-steps.

HipsDeep squat hold: 2–3 min.
Hips90/90 hip stretch: 60–90s per side.
HipsPigeon pose: 60–90s per side.
HipsFrog stretch: 60–90s.
ShouldersSleeper stretch: 30–45s per side.
ShouldersCross-body shoulder stretch: 30s per side.
ShouldersDoorway pec stretch: 30–45s per side.
GeneralCat-cow: 10 reps.
GeneralDownward dog to cobra flow: 8–10 reps.
GeneralHamstring stretch: 60s.

Saturday · Day 3

Technique / Projecting

Keep your natural strengths sharp while continuing to reinforce tension.

Warm-up20 min, varied terrain.
Main SetProject 2–3 problems at your limit — mix in at least one steep/tension problem alongside slab/dyno picks.
DrillSlab footwork, done once you're already pumped, not fresh: 3 problems.
DrillDyno "stick and hold": hold the landing static for 3s. 5 attempts.
Volume8–10 easy problems (2–3 grades below max) for efficiency, minimum wasted movement.

Sunday · Rest

Full Rest

Recovery day — no structured training.

RecoveryLet the week's hardest sessions fully absorb before the next block ramps up.
OptionalLight walking or easy mobility only.

Track Progress

Log a Day

Pick a date, choose the session you did, and tick off what you completed.

Date

Session

Track Progress

Session History

Days you've logged, colour-coded by session type.

Climbing day logged Home workout logged Rest day logged Missed

Your Data

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Track Progress

Stats

How often you complete each exercise on the days you've logged it.

Overview

Reference

Track Progress

BoulderingTraining Plan

Log Day

Follow Along

Warm-Up Routine

6-Week Progression

Injury Prevention

Core & Finisher

Strength & Power

Push

Shoulders

Posterior Chain

Forearms

Flexibility

Climbing Technique

Your Data

Bouldering
Training Plan